CRAFT

http://jang.com.pk/thenews/jun2008-weekly/nos-01-06-2008/foo.htm#1
A dying art
Revisiting the banarsi cloth industry in Khairpur
By Yasir Babbar

About sixty years ago, when Khairpur was a separate and independent state, many factories were set up -- match factory, textile mill, leather factory, banarsi cloth factories. Today, industry is nothing more than the legends told by the city elders.
Of the 250 small factories of banarsi clothes only 10 to 15 small factories (Banarsi Khadiyan) are presently working in. Banarsi Khadi which is the small industry for manufacturing banarsi clothes, especially the banarsi sari, suits and scarfs.
"We migrated to Pakistan from India after 15 years of Independence. General Ayub accommodated us in Khairpur establishing 86 quarters for our residents. Here we set up the small factories of hand-loom machines for making the banarsi clothes," says Chacha Jaffar recalling his past. Chacha Jafar gave up his vocation but still misses the old days. According to him there were more than 250 small factories and the government allotted a quota of 'resham' which was being imported from China and Japan. When Bhutto came he stopped giving the quota of resham after which they had to buy resham from Karachi and the business continued. Chacha Jaffar adds that during the time of Commissioner system in Khairpur, the business was at its best because Khairpur's banarsi cloth was very popular and people from all over the world came to Khairpur to buy banarsi saris from here as a souvenir. But when the government announced Sukkur as the divisional headquarter and Khairpur became a district, their business dwindled.
A craftsman of Banarsi Khadi, Qurbdar Talpur says, "My father was the karigar (worker) of Banarsi Khadi from whom I learned this craft. He can't work anymore because of his dwindling health. In eight hours, I make only one suit and my owner gives me only 110 rupees for my work. The money is not enough even for basic survival but I have no other option since that is the only skill I have." Qurbdar also feels disappointed because he sees no future in this business. Many workers from this area have shifted to Karachi's Orangi town, doing the same work, because of substantial demand for banarsi clothes, especially the banarsi sari.
Although banarsi clothes are available in the local market but it is not the most popular. Zafar Bhai, a shop keeper tells TNS "we are selling all types of clothes here in this particular showroom for banarsi clothes because there is not much demand of this type of cloth in Karachi, Punjab or India. There is no government support in this regard which compels us to keep our mouths shut."
Those who have quit the craft in favour of other jobs are better off since they are getting better pays. Chief Minister Sindh, Syed Qaim Ali Shah tells TNS "Inshallah I will make my home district like Paris and I would re-establish these industries which will reduce unemployment."
yasirbabbar@gmail.com